Just inland from the beaches of Cairns and Port Douglas, the Atherton Tablelands are Tropical North Queensland’s lush, waterfall-filled hinterland, a cool volcanic plateau of rainforest, crater lakes and some of the best cascades in Australia. We explored the Tablelands on our own Tropical North Queensland trip, chasing waterfalls and hunting for platypus, so this is our first-hand guide to the Atherton Tablelands, the best waterfalls and things to do, how to visit, and where to stay.
Key Takeaways
- The Waterfall Circuit is the star, linking the photogenic Millaa Millaa, Zillie and Ellinjaa falls on one easy loop.
- It’s an easy day trip from Cairns (about 1 hour) or Port Douglas, best done as a self-drive so you can chase falls at your own pace.
- Beyond waterfalls, there are ancient crater lakes (Barrine and Eacham), the giant Curtain Fig Tree, and rare wildlife including platypus and tree kangaroos.
- Granite Gorge is a favourite for getting up close to friendly rock wallabies.
- The dry season (May–October) is most comfortable; the waterfalls run fullest just after the wet (around March–May).
Atherton Tablelands at a Glance
| Where | Inland from Cairns, Tropical North Queensland |
| From Cairns | ~1 hour (a great day trip) |
| Star attraction | The Waterfall Circuit (Millaa Millaa) |
| Also known for | Crater lakes, Curtain Fig Tree, platypus |
| Best time | Dry season (May–Oct); falls fullest Mar–May |
| Getting around | A self-drive is essential |
The Atherton Tablelands rise behind the coast between Cairns and Port Douglas, a fertile plateau of rainforest, farmland, coffee and cheese producers, waterfalls and volcanic crater lakes. It’s cooler and greener than the tropical coast, and it makes a brilliant day trip or overnight from either town. Here’s the best of it, starting with the waterfalls everyone comes for.
How to Get to the Atherton Tablelands
The Atherton Tablelands are about an hour’s drive inland from Cairns (and a similar distance from Port Douglas), climbing from the coast up onto the plateau on one of a few scenic ranges. A self-drive is by far the best way to explore, as the waterfalls, lakes and lookouts are spread across rural roads that no bus reaches, so hire a car and take your time. Day tours run from Cairns if you’d rather not drive, but you lose the freedom to linger. The official Tourism Tropical North Queensland site is a handy reference for road conditions and opening times. The Tablelands pair perfectly with a wider trip up here, so see our guide to the Brisbane to Cairns drive for the full region.
The Best Atherton Tablelands Waterfalls
If there’s one reason to come to the Tablelands, it’s the waterfalls, and there are dozens, many with swimming holes at the base. These are the ones not to miss.
The Waterfall Circuit (Millaa Millaa, Zillie & Ellinjaa)
The famous Waterfall Circuit is a short, easy loop drive near the town of Millaa Millaa that links three gorgeous falls. Millaa Millaa Falls is the star, an impossibly photogenic 18-metre curtain of water tumbling into a wide swimming pool (you’ve almost certainly seen it in shampoo ads), and it’s a dreamy spot for a swim. Nearby Zillie Falls and Ellinjaa Falls round out the circuit, each with its own character and a short walk. The whole loop takes a couple of hours and is the essential Tablelands experience.
Davies Creek Falls
A little further afield, Davies Creek Falls tumbles over a series of granite ledges through open forest, with rock pools for a cooling dip and a lookout over the falls. It’s quieter than the main circuit and a lovely half-day, and the drive in (partly unsealed) is part of the adventure.
More Tablelands waterfalls
The Tablelands keep giving: Millstream Falls, near Ravenshoe, is the widest single-drop waterfall in Australia; Nandroya Falls, in Wooroonooran National Park, rewards a 6km rainforest walk; and Josephine Falls, on the coastal edge, has a natural rock slide. You could spend days just chasing cascades up here.
The Best Things to Do in the Atherton Tablelands
Beyond the waterfalls, the Tablelands are full of rainforest, wildlife and quirky natural wonders. Here’s the shortlist at a glance, followed by our favourites.
| Attraction | Type | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Waterfall Circuit Millaa Millaa | Waterfalls | The essential swim-and-photo loop |
| Lake Barrine | Crater lake | Rainforest walk, tea house, giant kauris |
| Lake Eacham | Crater lake | Swimming, easy loop walk |
| Curtain Fig Tree | Natural wonder | A 500-year-old giant strangler fig |
| Granite Gorge Nature Park | Wildlife | Feeding wild rock wallabies |
| Yungaburra | Village / wildlife | Platypus spotting, heritage town |
| Davies Creek Falls | Waterfall | A quieter falls with rock pools |
| Mount Hypipamee Crater | Natural wonder | A dramatic volcanic pipe & walk |
The crater lakes: Barrine and Eacham
The Tablelands sit on ancient volcanic country, and two of its most beautiful spots are the crater lakes of Lake Barrine and Lake Eacham, deep, still, rainforest-ringed lakes formed by volcanic explosions thousands of years ago. Walk the easy loop around Lake Barrine beneath giant kauri pines (with a lovely lakeside tea house), or swim in the clear water at Lake Eacham. They’re a serene contrast to the rushing waterfalls.
Granite Gorge and the rock wallabies
Granite Gorge Nature Park is one of our favourite Tablelands stops, a jumble of giant granite boulders that’s home to a colony of friendly Mareeba rock wallabies. Buy a bag of feed at the entrance and these gorgeous little wallabies will hop right up to you, a joy for kids and adults alike, plus there’s a scenic boulder-scramble walk and swimming holes.
Yungaburra, the Curtain Fig and platypus
The pretty heritage village of Yungaburra makes a perfect Tablelands base, and nearby is the extraordinary Curtain Fig Tree, a 500-year-old strangler fig whose aerial roots hang in a 15-metre curtain. Yungaburra is also one of the best places in Australia to spot a platypus in the wild: head to the Peterson Creek viewing platform at dawn or dusk, stay still and quiet, and watch for ripples. We were thrilled to spot one.
A Self-Drive Atherton Tablelands Itinerary
Because everything is spread out, the Tablelands are made for a self-drive loop. For a full day from Cairns, we’d suggest driving up via the Gillies Range, starting at the crater lakes (Barrine and Eacham) and the Curtain Fig near Yungaburra, then looping south to the Waterfall Circuit around Millaa Millaa for a swim, with Granite Gorge and its wallabies as a detour on the way back. With an overnight in Yungaburra you can slow down, add more waterfalls, and catch the platypus at dawn or dusk. It’s an easy, rewarding loop that packs in waterfalls, wildlife and rainforest.
The Atherton Tablelands’ waterfalls, crater lakes and wildlife spots are spread across rural roads with no public transport, so a self-drive is the only way to explore them properly and at your own pace.
We use and recommend Discover Cars to compare rental rates across suppliers, so you can pick up in Cairns and drive up to the Tablelands for the day or an overnight.
Where to Stay in the Atherton Tablelands
Most people visit the Tablelands as a day trip, but staying overnight (ideally in pretty Yungaburra) lets you catch the platypus at dawn and slow down among the waterfalls. These are a few good options.
| Hotel | Area | Price | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Eden House Retreat | Yungaburra | $$$ | Heritage cottages in the village |
| Chambers Wildlife Rainforest Lodges | Lake Eacham | $$ | Rainforest cabins, wildlife on the doorstep |
| Atherton Blue Gum B&B | Atherton | $$ | Comfortable, central Tablelands base |
Eden House Retreat
Eden House Retreat sits in the heart of heritage Yungaburra, with characterful cottages and easy access to the Curtain Fig and the platypus-viewing platform, a lovely, central base for a Tablelands overnight.
Chambers Wildlife Rainforest Lodges
Chambers Wildlife Rainforest Lodges is a set of self-contained cabins tucked into the rainforest near Lake Eacham, where possums, pademelons and birds come to you, a nature-lover’s pick right among the crater lakes.
Atherton Blue Gum B&B
Atherton Blue Gum B&B is a comfortable, well-run B&B in the town of Atherton, a practical and central base for exploring the waterfalls and lakes across the plateau.
Best Time to Visit the Atherton Tablelands
The dry season, roughly May to October, has the most comfortable weather and the easiest access, with warm, clear days ideal for chasing waterfalls and wildlife. The waterfalls run at their fullest just after the wet season (around March to May), so late in the wet is a lush, dramatic sweet spot if you don’t mind some rain. The wet season (November to April) is hotter and greener with heavier downpours, and some unsealed roads can be affected. Whenever you go, mornings and late afternoons are best for spotting platypus and wallabies. For wider planning, see our Australia travel tips and Australia itinerary.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the Atherton Tablelands known for?
The Atherton Tablelands are a lush volcanic hinterland behind Cairns, famous for their waterfalls (Millaa Millaa and the Waterfall Circuit), crater lakes, rainforest wildlife (platypus, tree kangaroos), the giant Curtain Fig Tree, and a cool-climate food, coffee and produce scene.
Can you do the Atherton Tablelands as a day trip from Cairns?
Yes. The Tablelands are about an hour’s drive from Cairns (and a similar distance from Port Douglas), and a self-drive day loop easily covers the main waterfalls, a crater lake and a lookout or two. An overnight in Yungaburra lets you slow down and catch the platypus.
What are the best waterfalls in the Atherton Tablelands?
The photogenic Millaa Millaa Falls is the star, and the Waterfall Circuit links it with Zillie and Ellinjaa Falls; Davies Creek Falls, Millstream Falls (the widest in Australia) and Nandroya Falls are other favourites, many with swimming holes.
What is the best time to visit the Atherton Tablelands?
The dry season (roughly May to October) has the most comfortable weather and easiest access; the waterfalls are fullest just after the wet season (around March to May), so late in the wet is a lush sweet spot.
Where should you stay in the Atherton Tablelands?
The pretty village of Yungaburra makes a central base, with Atherton and the Lake Eacham area also handy; many visitors day-trip from Cairns or Port Douglas instead.
Final Thoughts
The Atherton Tablelands are Tropical North Queensland’s lush, green secret, a world of waterfalls, crater lakes and platypus just an hour from the reef and the coast. Hire a car, chase the Waterfall Circuit, feed the wallabies at Granite Gorge, and stay a night in Yungaburra if you can. It’s the perfect rainforest counterpoint to a Cairns or Port Douglas beach trip, and pairs well with the Whitsundays and the wider Australia trip. Which waterfall will you swim in first?
READ NEXT: Things to Do in Port Douglas
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