The wildebeest migration is the year-round journey of about 1.5 million wildebeest, with hundreds of thousands of zebras and gazelles, around the Serengeti in Tanzania and the Masai Mara in Kenya. For the famous Mara River crossings, go between roughly July and October and base yourself in the northern Serengeti or the Masai Mara; for the calving season, go between January and March and stay in the southern Serengeti around Ndutu. The herds never stop moving, so there’s something to see in every month.
We watched the wildebeest migration in the northern Serengeti from 7 to 10 August 2018, on a photography assignment for Lemala Camps & Lodges. Our first crossing came almost the moment we landed: our guide, Frank, drove us straight from the airstrip to where he thought the herds might cross, and they did. We’ve been back to the Serengeti since, and it’s still the wildlife experience we rate above all others.
Key Takeaways
- The migration is a year-round loop. Calving in the south from January to March, the Western Corridor around June, river crossings in the north from about July to October, then back south.
- River crossings are unpredictable. Herds can gather on the bank for hours or days before they jump; give yourself at least three full days near the river.
- Tanzania or Kenya? The Serengeti hosts the herds for most of the year with fewer vehicles; the Masai Mara is smaller, busier and easier to reach, with crossings from August to October.
- Camp location matters most. A camp near the Mara River in season can mean watching a crossing between lunch and dinner.
When and Where to See the Wildebeest Migration
| What | About 1.5 million wildebeest plus zebras and gazelles, moving clockwise year-round |
| Where | Serengeti National Park, Tanzania, and the Masai Mara, Kenya |
| River crossings | Roughly July to October, peaking in August and September |
| Calving season | January to March, southern Serengeti (Ndutu) |
| Best base for crossings | Northern Serengeti (Kogatende, Lamai) or the Masai Mara |
| Time needed | 4 to 7 nights, with at least 3 full days by the river |
| Live updates | HerdTracker by Discover Africa |
The great wildebeest migration is a circular journey of roughly 1,000 km (620 miles) through the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem, the herds following the rains and the fresh grass that comes with them. It has no real start or end, but its stages are distinct, and timing your trip to one of them is the key to a good migration safari.
Scientists still don’t fully understand how the herds decide when to move, but rainfall and grazing drive it, and the timing shifts a little every year. That’s why it’s worth checking HerdTracker, which publishes regular updates on where the herds are, and asking your camp before you book flights.
Why Do the Wildebeest Migrate?
The short answer is grass and water. The southern Serengeti’s short-grass plains, rich in minerals from ancient volcanic ash, are perfect for nursing mothers in the wet season, but they dry out quickly once the rains stop. The herds then move north and west towards the Masai Mara and the Western Corridor, where rain falls more reliably through the dry months, and return south when the short rains green up the plains again in November.
The wildebeest don’t travel as one herd. They spread across the landscape in groups of thousands, sometimes hundreds of kilometres apart, with zebras usually leading the way because they eat the taller, coarser grass, leaving the shorter shoots the wildebeest prefer. Predators follow every step: lions, hyenas, cheetahs and leopards on land, and Nile crocodiles in the rivers.
Wildebeest Migration Month by Month
This is roughly where the herds are through the year, and where to stay to see them.
| Months | Where the herds are | What’s happening | Where to stay |
|---|---|---|---|
| January to March | Southern Serengeti and Ngorongoro (Ndutu) | Calving season; predators follow | Ndutu area |
| April to May | Moving through the central Serengeti | Long rains; herds on the move | Seronera, central Serengeti |
| June to July | Western Corridor | Grumeti River crossings | Western Corridor camps |
| July to October | Northern Serengeti and Masai Mara | Mara River crossings, peaking in August and September | Kogatende and Lamai; the Mara |
| November to December | Eastern and central Serengeti, heading south | Short rains; return crossings in October and November | Central Serengeti, then Ndutu |
Calving Season in the Southern Serengeti (January to March)
The herds spend the early months of the year on the short-grass plains of the southern Serengeti and the edge of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, where hundreds of thousands of calves are born, most within a few weeks. The calves can run within minutes of birth, an essential survival skill, because lions, cheetahs and hyenas follow the herds. It’s a quieter, greener time to visit, and one of the best for predator sightings. Combine it with our guide to the Ngorongoro Crater.
Northbound Through the Central Serengeti and the Grumeti Crossing (April to July)
As the long rains end, the herds move north through the central Serengeti and into the Western Corridor, accompanied by large herds of zebras. Around June, they cross the Grumeti River, a smaller, less predictable crossing than the Mara, with large crocodiles. Thousands of animals never make it through this part of the journey.
The Mara River Crossings (July to October)
For most travellers, the Mara River crossings are the main draw. The river runs through the northern Serengeti and the Masai Mara, and the herds cross it again and again, northbound mostly in August and September and southbound in October and November, often several times as they follow the rain. Crocodiles wait in the water, and the crossings are chaotic, loud and hard to look away from.
Back South (November to December)
After the river crossings, the herds head south again through the eastern and central Serengeti, ready to give birth on the southern plains in the new year, and the loop begins again.
Wildebeest Migration Map
This map shows the rough loop the herds follow, from the calving grounds around Ndutu in the south, north through Seronera and the Western Corridor near Grumeti, to the Mara River at Kogatende. The herds then cross into Kenya’s Masai Mara before returning south.
What It’s Like to See a Mara River Crossing
Nature documentaries might prepare you for nonstop action, but what you might not realise is that river crossings are relatively infrequent and completely unpredictable. The herds gather on the bank, sometimes for hours, sometimes for days, waiting for one animal to make the first move.
We were lucky. On our first afternoon, 7 August 2018, Frank drove us straight from the airstrip to where he thought a crossing might happen, and we saw one almost immediately. On other days we waited much longer. And on one of our days at Lemala Mara camp, we were having lunch when we saw the herds start to cross in the distance; we watched for a bit before realising it was a huge one, then jumped into the Land Cruiser and raced down to the river.
Expect company. Dozens of safari vehicles line up along the bank, parked well back so they don’t spook the herd. When the moment arrives, be prepared: the vehicles rev their engines and race to the front, each driver fighting for the best viewing spot. It’s chaotic, but once the wildebeest start jumping, nobody is thinking about the other cars.
The crossing itself is overwhelming: thousands of animals pouring down the bank, leaping into the water, swimming across the current while crocodiles strike, and scrambling up the other side in clouds of dust. A big crossing can last for an hour or more.
Serengeti or Masai Mara?
Both parks are part of the same ecosystem, and you can see river crossings from either. This is how they compare.
| Serengeti (Tanzania) | Masai Mara (Kenya) | |
|---|---|---|
| Migration season | All year, somewhere in the park | About July to October |
| Crossings | Mara River in the north; Grumeti in the west | Mara River, from the Kenyan side |
| Crowds | Fewer vehicles, a much bigger area | Busier at crossing points in peak season |
| Access | Fly from Arusha to Kogatende (2–3 hours) | Short flights or a drive from Nairobi |
| Best for | The full migration cycle, a wilder feel | A shorter trip, easier logistics |
If you can only go once, we’d choose the northern Serengeti in August or September: the same crossings with fewer vehicles. If you’re short on time or combining with the rest of Kenya, the Mara is the easier option; see our Kenya travel guide and the best national parks in Kenya.
On the Kenyan side, the herds usually arrive in the Masai Mara in late July or August. The Mara Triangle, managed separately in the west of the reserve, has fewer vehicles and strict rules at crossing points, while the private conservancies on the reserve’s northern edge, such as Mara North and Olare Motorogi, limit vehicle numbers and allow off-road driving and walking safaris. Staying in a conservancy is the best way to avoid the busiest scenes at the main crossing points.
Planning Your Migration Safari
Choose Your Camp Carefully
Where you stay matters more than anything else. In crossing season, the river is the action, so a camp close to the Mara River can save hours of driving every day. Mobile camps move with the herds through the year, while permanent lodges stay put; in the north, the best options are near Kogatende and the Lamai Wedge.
On our assignment, we stayed at Lemala Mara, a seasonal tented camp near the Mara River in the northern Serengeti, and Lemala Ewanjan in the central Serengeti; for calving season, Lemala also runs Lemala Ndutu in the south. These camps are booked direct or through safari operators.
If you prefer a permanent lodge in the central Serengeti, these are well-rated options on Booking.com.
| Hotel | Area | Price | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge | Central Serengeti | $$$ | A classic lodge with a pool |
| Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti | Central Serengeti | $$$$ | Luxury, a waterhole view |
Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge
Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge is a long-established lodge in the central Serengeti with a pool and wide views, rated 9.1 on Booking.com.
Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti
Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti is a luxury lodge built around a waterhole that attracts elephants, rated 9.8 on Booking.com. See our best lodges in the Serengeti for more.
Hire a Good Guide
A good driver-guide reads the herds, knows where crossings are likely and has the patience to wait. Frank’s instinct got us to our first crossing within an hour of landing. Most camps include guided game drives; if you’re on a tour, choose an operator with experienced Serengeti guides.
Plan to Be Patient
Pack snacks, water and a book, and be prepared to sit by the river for hours. Many crossings come in the heat of the afternoon, and some days there’s none at all, which is why three or more full days near the river is the safe minimum.
Have Other Activities Planned
The Serengeti is about much more than wildebeest: lions, cheetahs, leopards and elephants are all around, and balloon safaris over the plains are a memorable addition. Many travellers combine the migration with the Ngorongoro Crater, Kilimanjaro, Zanzibar or even Victoria Falls.
A three-day safari from Arusha to the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater, rated 4.8 out of 5.
3 days · from Arusha · check which part of the migration is in range on your dates
Photographing the Wildebeest Migration
We were in the Serengeti to photograph, and a crossing is one of the hardest wildlife subjects there is: it’s fast, chaotic, dusty and often a long way off. A few things made the difference for us.
| Tip | Why it helps |
|---|---|
| Bring a long lens | 100–400 mm or longer; crossings are often across the river |
| Use a fast shutter speed | 1/1000 second or faster freezes leaping wildebeest and spray |
| Shoot in bursts | The decisive jump lasts a fraction of a second |
| Rest the lens on a bean bag | Vehicle windows and roofs make a steady base |
| Look for the story, not just the herd | A single jump, a calf with its mother, a crocodile strike |
| Watch the light | Early morning and late afternoon crossings glow; midday is harsh |
Don’t forget to put the camera down for part of it. The sound of thousands of hooves, the dust and the noise of the herd are what we remember most.
How Much Does a Migration Safari Cost?
Migration safaris aren’t cheap, because peak crossing season coincides with peak prices and the northern Serengeti is remote. As a rough guide, budget group camping safaris start from a few hundred US dollars per person per day, mid-range tented camps run roughly US$500–900 per person per night including meals and game drives, and the best camps near the Mara River cost considerably more. Light-aircraft flights from Arusha, park fees and tips add to the total. Travelling in the shoulder months (late June, early July or late October) or for calving season can lower costs.
Threats to the Wildebeest Migration
The migration depends on the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem staying connected. Roads, fences, farmland and settlements on the edges of the parks, water use upstream on the Mara River, poaching and climate change all put pressure on it. Choosing operators that support conservation and local communities, respecting the rules at crossing points, and never pressuring your guide to get closer all help protect it for the future.
Getting to the Northern Serengeti
Most visitors fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport, or Arusha, then take a light aircraft to one of the Serengeti airstrips, landing at Kogatende for the northern Serengeti and the Mara River crossings. The flights take two to three hours with stops, and luggage limits are strict (usually about 15 kg (33 pounds) in a soft bag). Driving from Arusha is possible, but it takes a long day or two.
The Serengeti charges daily park fees per person, which change regularly; check the Tanzania National Parks website or your operator for current rates. Travel insurance that covers remote areas is essential, and SafetyWing is one option.
What to Pack
Pack light, neutral-coloured clothing in soft bags for the light aircraft, a warm layer for cold early mornings, a hat, sunscreen and binoculars. If you’re a photographer, a telephoto lens is essential, ideally 100–400 mm or longer, plus a bean bag for resting it on the vehicle. Our safari packing guide has the full list.
How Long to Spend Watching the Wildebeest Migration
We’d recommend four to seven nights. For the river crossings, plan at least three full days at a camp near the Mara River; for calving season, three or four nights around Ndutu is enough. Adding a few nights in the central Serengeti or the Ngorongoro Crater makes it a complete safari.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to see the wildebeest migration?
July to October for the Mara River crossings; January to March for calving in the southern Serengeti. Timing varies with the rains each year.
Where is the best place to see the wildebeest migration?
The northern Serengeti (around Kogatende and Lamai) or the Masai Mara for river crossings; the Ndutu area in the southern Serengeti for calving.
Is it better to see the Great Migration in Tanzania or Kenya?
Tanzania’s Serengeti hosts the herds for most of the year and has fewer vehicles at crossings; Kenya’s Masai Mara is smaller, busier and easier to reach, with crossings from August to October.
How many wildebeest are in the migration?
About 1.5 million wildebeest, travelling with several hundred thousand zebras and gazelles.
When do the Mara River crossings happen?
Usually from late July to October, peaking in August and September, with return crossings in October and November. No crossing is guaranteed on a given day.
How do I find out where the herds are right now?
Ask your camp or guide, or check Discover Africa’s HerdTracker, which publishes regular updates on the herds’ positions.
How many days do you need to see a river crossing?
At least three or four full days near the river; crossings are unpredictable, and on some days we waited for hours.
Can you see the wildebeest migration with young kids who can’t sit in a vehicle all day?
Yes, but choose a camp close to the river to cut drive times, plan shorter game drives with breaks, and check the camp’s minimum age; many accept children from about six.
Final Thoughts
Watching the wildebeest migration cross the Mara River remains one of the most extraordinary things we’ve seen anywhere. Time it right, stay close to the river and be patient, and the herds will reward you. The Serengeti is a UNESCO World Heritage site, so choose operators who respect the animals and keep their distance at crossings, as our guide to a responsible East Africa safari explains. For more on the rest of the country, see our safari in Tanzania with andBeyond and the Big Five in Tanzania.
Have you seen the wildebeest migration? Where did you watch it from?
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